Sunday 26 October 2014

Budapest - from wooden carvings to hot bath

We started the day by walking a bit to a subway station by the parliament. The city is dotted with bronze statues representing famous Hungarian figures (like Imre Nagy, the man on the bridge) or typical Hungarian citizen (there is a women with an umbrella, a policeman from the 1900's...).

The man on the bridge is Imre Nagy.
We arrived behind the parliament and stopped the time to snap a few pictures.

The parliament
Our day's visit was to begin on Castle Hill, on the Buda side of the river:

Castle Hill viewed from the parliament - Photo courtesy J.
The parliament viewed from Castle Hill - Photo courtesy J.
We went down from one end of Castle Hill to the other, and we arrived at Buda Palace, which houses the Hungarian National Gallery. We started with the gothic period with wooden paintings and carvings. We were alone in that part of the gallery, which was due either to the subject matter, the early hour on a Sunday morning, or the fact that to accede this place, one has to cross the museum shop or to go up one floor, cross the late Renaissance art, avoid going into the gothic winged alterpieces to go down another flight of stairs. All that without clear directions.
Maria gravida, or Mary at the Spinning Wheel from Németújvá 
St. Dorothy - Photo courtesy J.

Virgin and Child from Szlatvin - Photo courtesy J.
Maybe it was the lack of people, but it was my favorite part of the visit. (It might also have been due to the fact that the 19th and 20th century paintings didn't appeal to me.)

There was also some fun stuff under to cupola: a temporary exhibition with flying people.

Photo courtesy J.
We finally left to fill our hungry bellies and found a cosy place, a bit trendy, a bit expensive for Budapest but very good... the Boom and Brass.

After a leisurely meal, we went home and prepared to test the thermal bath of the city.

The Szechenyi Bath are the biggest and the best-known. Outside hot bath, whirlpool, sauna, hammam, pools of different temperature, and even a long swimming-pool! So, you think outdoor bath are fun? Yep, right until you have to access them in your wet swimsuit through the cold outside air. It seems suddenly less fun, but the warmth seeps straight through your body... and you try not to think to the part when you will have to leave again.

Saturday 25 October 2014

Budapest

Today was my first day in Budapest!

The journey went smoothly: I got my plane with plenty of time, anyway it was late, so we landed half an hour past the expected time of arrival, but I had plenty of time to buy my subway tickets and our tourist 3-day cards before J. arrived. Yep, not traveling alone this time.

The weather was beautiful, we found the address of our rented flat quickly, we got the keys without trouble, we dropped our bags and started exploring.

Renting a flat is a cheaper option than an hotel, especially if you are staying more than three days and if there are several people in your party. In addition to that, since you can cook your own food, you save compared to eating out.

The flat we chose had two separate rooms, was on a first floor (the British first floor, the one above the ground level, not the American first floor); to access the different flats, one goes up the stairs, enter the inside balcony that runs around the interior courtyard, and reaches one's door. I really love that.

The central courtyard - Photo courtesy J.
Our building, although it looked old and a bit run-down, was very well situated, between two major subway lines and not that far from a third.

Our first visit was to St. Stephen's Basilica. It is at the end of our street, and walking an equal distance in the other direction would have led us to the opera, which we didn't get to visit.

The basilica is quite nice, with an interior typically baroque and rococo -although contrary to other places, I found it quite harmonious.

I particularly liked the chandeliers - Photo courtesy J.

The cupola - Photo courtesy J.
Actually, we went first up the cupola, on the observation platform to see the city.

Photo courtesy J.

The main relic of the basilica is the mummified hand of St. Stephen, which we couldn't see that day (but we went back a few days later). The fist is covered by a rich sleeve and is set in a huge reliquary.

After the visit we walked to the Danube, passing by a bridal couple.


A bridal couple walking toward St. Stephen's Basilica - Photo courtesy J.
We crossed the Danube, walked a bit, saw the night was falling, crossed back, and went looking for a place to eat.

Photo courtesy J.
J. remembered a good place to eat a goulash, and we went to the Bazilika restaurant, nearby St. Stephen, obviously, where we got a delicious goulash soup and a very good dessert (home-made strudel...!)

A very good first day.